How to make and fit a bodice

Since I've taught several of my friends make bodices, I thought I would put this article up for the new costumer (or experienced who wants to learn a new trick).

Probably the hardest thing about making a bodice, is fitting it to your unique body. Thankfully, there is an easy solution. It may sound strange or odd, but it works well. You need to find a friend willing to help you, a large roll of dust tape (yes, that's right, I said duct tape), a marker, and an old t-shirt. The general idea is that you will make a "mold" of your torso, wherby you can make a pattern for your bodice.

The first step is to dig through your closet and find an old t-shirt that you don't mind destroying. The shirt should be long enough to go a little past your waist. When you find a shirt, it's time to grab your friend. Have your friend wrap you in duct tape, using 6 inch strips over the shirt. Make sure that you have at least 2 layers of tape on the shirt. You only have to cover the areas that you want the bodice to cover. This will take most of the roll.

Once you have finished duct taping, bring out the marker. You need to decide how you want your bodice cut, that is if you want laces on the front, sides or back. Have your friend use the marker and outline all the seams on the tape. Don't forget the tops of the shoulders, and where you want the bottom to fall . The next step is cutting this mold off of you. Get the scissors and have your friend cut where they drew the seams, till you can wiggle out. Continue cutting till you have all your pieces seperate. This is your "mold", or rough draft of your future bodice.

This is an example of a front lacing bodice:

You can use the duct tape, or make a finished cloth pattern using this taped pattern. To do this, grab some fabric, trace the taped pattern, adding a 1/2 inch seam allowance. This is your finished pattern.

Now on to cutting the garmet. You should choose a stiff fabric for your bodice. If you have a weak fabric for the outside of the bodice, you definelty need an strong interlining fabric, and a lining. I recommend a interfacing layer no matter what fabric you choose for the bodice. Grab your pattern and cut out your pieces for each layer of fabric.

Break out your sewing machine, because now the actual sewing takes place. (Note: these instructions are for a front lacing bodice, if you are making a side lacing bodice, subsutite the front for the sides. For a back lacing, substitue the back for the sides.) Sew the sides seams of the lining, then the sides of the interlining togther. Next sew the sides of your outside fabric together.

Next you are going to assemble the fabrics in this order from bottom to top: interlining, fabric, and lining. Sew the bottom of all 3 fabrics together, then sew the front seams. (For a side or back lacing, sew the sides or back of the 3 fabrics.) You are next going to sew the armholes of the 3 fabrics, making sure (this is the important part) that you DO NOT sew the shoulder seams.

After you have left the shoulder seams open, go ahead and sew the 3 fabrics of the neckline together.You may put boning in wherever you are making your laces if you wish at this point.

Now you are going to pull your bodice right-side out through the holes of the shoulder seams that you haven't sewn yet. This is tricky sometimes, so take your time. Once you have pulled the bodice right-side out, double check all your seams you have sewn. Now you are going to sew the outside fabric of the shoulder seams together. Then sew the interlining shoulders together. Then sew the lining of the shoulder seams by hand. All you need to finish is to put grommets or eyelets in to be able to lace your new bodice.

When is comes to bodices, fit is everything. Now you have a unique pattern just for your body. Make sure to date this and store the pattern and the orginal duct tape somewhere for future reference after you finish sewing. If you would like a bodice that laces differently, you can go through the process again, cutting it the way you wish. Good luck & happy sewing!