Dress Diary of Navy, Italian 1562 dress

I was searching for inspiration for a dress, looking through Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion c.1560-1620", when I came across the dress that Eleanora of Toledo was buried in. I absolutely fell in love with this dress, and decided to make my own version. It must have been serendipity, because several weeks before I had bought trim that closely matches the design of the trim (guards) of the original dress. I decided to use navy brocade that I have, instead of velvet & satin which the orginal dress was constructed from.

7/8/04

I have been having fabric anxiety about cutting this dress. I never use patterns, it's just something I don't do. However, I am extremely nervous about cutting the bodice & screwing up. The bodice laces up differently (2 laces from the shoulder blades down) than any other dress I've made. Why am I nervous? I usually don't care if I make a mistake, I fix it and move on. However, this time I don't have enough fabric to screw up & start again. After estimating & drawing in chalk on the fabric a design that might work, I've decided to not cut. Even though I really want to get this dress done. I'm going to make a personal model of my body to get the right fit & then cut it out. I've got too many other sewing projects halfway done to even start on this one anyway. Besides, I have an event to get ready for this weekend and garb to make for other people.

7/18/04

Ok, I've finally had time to make a model of myself tonight. I can start to cut the bodice out tomorrow, even though I should be working on other projects, like getting ready for Pennsic.

7/19/04

I cut the bodice out today. Yea! I started sewing the trim on the bodice. I also cut the interfacing (the middle layer to give stiffiness) and the lining. I debated about using a 2nd trim to go on the sides of the main trim, but I only have enough to cover the bodice, the skirt wouldn't have it. I decided not to add it, possibly IF I find some more of the same trim, I'll add it after I complete the dress. After I finished the trim on the bodice I took this picture. (This is the front)

This is the back

I assembled all 3 layers of the bodice and sewed them together, and turned the bodice right side out. That's it for today, I will cut out the skirt another time. I still haven't decided on the exact design for the sleeves, so they will probably be the last thing that I cut out.